Stage Layher scaffolding (often called "Layher frame" for short in the industry) Raya Scaffolding is a super practical temporary support structure for stages. It’s not like those fixed trusses—this one’s all about being easy to put together, take apart, and adjust. Whether you’re setting up a small school performance stage or a medium-sized outdoor concert platform, Ringlock Scaffolding it works perfectly. The main thing it does is hold up the stage floor, lighting, and even some light audio gear. It’s super popular in the event world because it’s sturdy, flexible, and doesn’t need fancy tools to assemble. I. Core Uses: It’s All About "Support" and "Flexibility"
1. Building Stage Floors—Super Stable
Most stages need a flat, High Load Cuplock Scaffolding solid surface for performers to stand on, right? Layher scaffolding is the "base" for that. You can stack the frames to different heights (usually from 0.5m to 5m—enough for most small to medium stages) and then lay plywood or stage panels on top. The frame’s grid structure (it’s made of vertical posts and horizontal crossbars) spreads out the weight evenly, so even if a group of dancers jumps on it, the stage won’t shake or sink Adjustable Raya Scaffolding. 2. Holding Up Light Gear—Safe and Reliable
If you need to hang some small lighting fixtures (like par cans) or lightweight backdrops above the stage, you can add horizontal "load bars" to the Layher scaffolding. These bars are designed to hook onto the frame, and they can hold up to 50-100kg per section—more than enough for basic stage lights. Unlike some flimsy supports, this one won’t wobble even if there’s a little wind indoors.
3. Adapting to Any Spot—No Fuss with Uneven Ground
Ever set up a stage in a park or a hall with bumpy floors?Stage Raya Scaffolding Layher scaffolding fixes that easily. Each vertical post has an adjustable base (you twist it to raise or lower, just like a screw). You can tweak each post’s height by 5-15cm—so even if the ground has a small slope, the whole scaffolding stays perfectly level. No more worrying about the stage being lopsided! II. What It’s Made Of & How It’s Put Together
1. Key Parts—Simple but Sturdy
Vertical Posts: These are the "legs" of the scaffolding, usually made of galvanized steel (some light-duty ones are aluminum). They’re about 1-2m long, with holes every 15-20cm—those holes are for connecting the stage event scaffolding crossbars.
Horizontal Crossbars: These are the "arms" that link the posts together. They have metal pins on both ends—you just slide the pins into the holes on the posts, and they lock in place with a little click. No bolts, no nuts—super quick.
Adjustable Bases: The bottom of each post has a plastic or metal base with a threaded rod. Twist it up or down to fix height, and it has a wide flat bottom so it doesn’t sink into soft ground (like grass).
Diagonal Braces: For extra stability (especially if the stage is tall or outdoors), you add these diagonal bars between the posts.
They make triangles, so the whole thing is much sturdier and won't lean or shake easily.
2. Materials—Tough and Easy to Care For
Most stage Layher scaffolding uses galvanized steel—this stuff is great because it doesn’t rust, even if it gets a little wet (like from outdoor dew). Modular Stage Scaffolding Raya System The aluminum ones are lighter (good for carrying to small venues), but they’re better for light loads. The metal parts are thick enough (usually 2-3mm) to be strong, but not so heavy that you can’t carry them—one person can lift a crossbar or a short post easily.
III. How to Pick One & Set It Up
1. Picking the Right One—Don’t Guess
Check the Load: First, figure out how heavy your stage gear is. If it’s just a floor and some small lights, a light-duty aluminum set works. If you’re hanging heavier stuff (like a small LED screen), go for galvanized steel—make sure the scaffolding’s rated load is at least 1.2 times what you’re putting on it (safety first!).
Match the Height/Size: Measure your stage area first. If you need a 6m long, 4m wide stage, buy enough posts and crossbars to cover that—most brands sell standard sets (like 10 posts + 15 crossbars) that you can add to if you need more.
2. Setting It Up—3 Easy Steps
Step 1: Lay Out the Bases: First, mark where each post will go (use a tape measure to keep them evenly spaced—usually 1.5-2m apart). Put the adjustable bases down and twist them to roughly the same height (use a level to check—you can fine-tune later).
Step 2: Build the Frame: Attach the vertical posts to the bases, then connect the horizontal crossbars—slide the pins into the post holes and lock them. Add diagonal braces on the sides (every 2-3m) to keep it steady.
Step 3: Level It & Add the Floor: Use a level to check if the frame is flat. Twist the adjustable bases to fix any uneven spots. Then lay the stage panels or plywood on top—secure them with small screws so they don’t slide.
3. Things to Watch Out For
Don’t skip the diagonal braces—even indoors, they stop the frame from leaning.
Tighten the adjustable bases properly—if they’re loose, the stage might move.
After setting up, give the frame a gentle shake to test it—if it wobbles, add more braces or check the crossbar pins.
IV. Where You’ll See It Most
Small Performances: School plays, community concerts—places where you need a quick stage that’s easy to take down afterward.
Outdoor Events: Food festivals, local fairs—its adjustable bases work on grass or dirt, and galvanized steel resists rain.
Temporary Backstages: Even big concerts use it for backstage areas—where crew members stand to adjust lights or help performers.
It’s not the fanciest gear, but it’s the one you’ll rely on for almost any temporary stage. Simple, strong, and no hassle—That’s why stage crews love it!
Wuxi Zhongshengwei Metal Products Co., Ltd.
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